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A Bonnie Day Tae Ye

  • Writer: Tina Hill
    Tina Hill
  • 23 hours ago
  • 14 min read

Updated: 9 minutes ago

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I can thank a rugby game for our impromptu vacation to Ireland and Scotland. There was an international match that caught Dave's eye, and we decided to build a trip around that event with our friends Lorna & Mike. The good news for Boston residents is that we get nonstops to both Shannon & Dublin Airport. Our plan was to cover as much of Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way as possible and then fly over to Edinburgh for the match. We flew into Shannon and spent two nites each in Galway, Killarney, and then Dublin. We flew from Dublin to Edinburgh for a three nite stay.


Each location offers its own special vibe. As for flying into Shannon, this is an AWESOME airport. It's small and super easy to navigate. For this reason, I highly recommend starting here. The car rental was easy peasy. As for Edinburgh Arport, this is walkable city, and you do not need a car rental. There is a long walkway that takes you to the taxi terminal. The only negative is their taxi system because THERE IS NO SYSTEM! You walk out of the airport to the taxi area and get in a long line, where taxis trickle in one by one. We waited in line an hour before getting a taxi. Arranging a driver would have been the way to go at Edinbugh Airport.


From Left: Logan Airport/Pre Departure, Shannon Airport, and Lorna with Her Big Bag!


Edinburgh was our last stop, and we spent three nites at the Caledonian Hotel, formerly the Waldorf Astoria. This city is absolutely beautiful. Gothic buildings, Edinburgh Castle high above the city on the hill, and cobblestone streets make you feel like you're walking thru the pages of a Harry Potter novel. Victoria Street is a standout in particular. The shopping, architecture, and colorful structures make this one of the most photographed streets in Edinburgh. Many compare it to a real Diagon Alley, and it's said that JK Rowling took her inspiration from this very street. There are even a few wizardly shops to collect Harry Potter fanfare.


If you're considering a visit to Ireland and Scotland, I hope my post gives you additional insight that will be useful.


Day 1: Galway

We made our way to the Hardiman Hotel, which was about an hour's drive from SNN. I was excited to stay here because I book this property repeatedly for my clients. The Hardiman is gorgeous, and I recommend upgrading to the Executive Room category, which is a very spacious king room or better. The hotel is located in Eyre Square and walking distance to all the pubs, pier, cathedral, and so much more. Quay Street, High Street, and Shop Street make up the Latin Quarter, which is the heart and social center of Galway. The cobblestone roads, colorful buildings, lively pubs, and nightlife scene give this small city a big personality. The photo opportunities are endless here. #shannon #snn #latinquarter #eyresquare #galway


Hardiman Hotel - Executive Room - Galway

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After dropping our bags off at the Hardiman Hotel, we walked the streets of Galway, explored the area of the Latin Quarter, and decided to visit a pub a car ride away that Lorna's friend recommended. Considering the amount of jetlag we were dealing with, we did okay, but I did make one rookie move. We did not visit Bunratty Castle enroute to Galway from SNN, which would have saved us time when we were in Killarney. I'll get to that later in the post. #hardimanhotel #hardimangalway


Lorna and I in Galway Center

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Galway Center/Latin Quarter


We ended our nite at a local pub in the Latin Quarter


Day 2: Galway

Best decision ever was deciding to do Cliffs of Moher today instead of tomorrow, while making our way to Killarney. This was a full day of sightseeing and driving, and we enjoyed every bit of it. After a glorious nite of sleep and a solid breakfast, we got in our car and drove to Dunguaire Castle. Built in the 16th century and still intact, we walked around the castle, enjoyed the scenery of Galway Bay, and got to see our first of many rainbows. Next, we stopped at the Burren to take in the grey limestone's rocky formations that contain both fossils and caves before continuing on to the cliffs. This is an amazingly picturesque drive, where the landscape is extraordinary. #dunguairecastle


Dunguaire Castle

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The Burren

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On arrival at the Cliffs of Moher, the weather changed from sunny to rainy quickly, but we were prepared. You can expect swift weather changes and, especially, wind here as you are at the ocean's edge. Entrance fees are per person not per car and credit cards are accepted. With hundreds of other tourists, we walked along the cliffs and went into O'Brien's Tower, an observation tower giving you views of Galway Bay, Doolin, and the Aran Islands on a clear day. The Cliffs of Moher are one of Ireland's most popular tourist attractions and not to be missed if you're driving on the Wild Atlantic Way. After our visit, we had lunch at Gus O'Connor's Pub in Doolin. This was one of our favorite stops. There are a few sweater shops for tourists, and the pub had a cozy atmosphere and was decorated with police patches and license plates from all over the States. The beef stew was delicious as were the drinks...Irish coffee for me and Guiness for Dave and Mike. This was their go to for the duration. #galway #cliffsofmoher #burren #gusoconnorspub #doolin #galwaybay #guiness #obrienstower #wildatlanticway


Cliffs of Moher

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O'Brien's Tower

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Stopping in Doolin at Gus O'Connor's Pub for lunch

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A little Shopping at a Sweater Shop Next to the Pub

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On our drive back to our Galway hotel, we enjoyed the green countryside, sheep, farms, and scenic views of County Clare. On recommendation, we made a pit stop at Moran's Oyster Cottage, www.moransoystercottage.com, for a snack. The guys enjoyed oysters while Lorna and I had bread pudding. This is a great place to have dinner. We just weren't that hungry. The menu and ambience are so authentic. This restaurant was packed; we were lucky the host went out of his way to make room for us. Reservations are strongly recommended. #moransoystercottage #moransireland #moransgalway


Moran's Oyster Cottage

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Day 3: Killarney

After breakfast, we made a quick stop at the Galway Cathedral. I'm glad we didn't miss out on this. The cathedral is special and not your typical as it features a large dome, centrally located, that stands 145 feet tall. It's one of the largest buildings in Galway and now home to where the Galway Jail was once located. It's not an old church (1958 -1965), but the architecture, marble floors, and remarkable art make it well worth the visit. (No entrance fee) #galwaycathedral


Galway Cathedral

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On to Bunratty Castle, which is close to Shannon. This took us an hour out of our way and should have been done on Day 1. No regrets, but I did mess up on my order of things...geographically. Before entering Bunratty Castle, you walk through Folk Park, a small village of thatched roof cottages, pubs, shops, and even animals are roaming the grounds. This is all representative of 19th century Irish living and reminded me of Sturbridge Village or Colonial Williamsburg, but on a smaller scale. #bunrattycastle


Cottage in Folk Park

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Bunratty Castle is a 15th century castle that has withstood battles, sieges, and has changed ownership quite a few times. It is a living museum with a great hall, bedrooms, chapel, murder holes, dungeon, and more...so much to explore. This is a MUST-SEE Landmark that cost $20 for adults.


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Our next castle visit was in Cork at the infamous Blarney Castle and the surrounding gardens including the poison garden, which was created more recently to educate visitors on deadly and toxic plants in plain sight. Built in 1446, this castle has also withstood battles and changed hands numerous times. Home to the Blarney Stone and one of Irelands most popular attractions, legend says that if you kiss the stone, you are given the gift of speaking well. Kissing the stone is no easy task, as you have to do it bent backwards. It's still a landmark that attracts thousands of tourists yearly. Some believe the stone was discovered during the Crusades and others say it was built from the same rock used to make Stonehenge. There is a lot of folklore surrounding the stone and castle. #blarneycastle #blarneystone #poisongarden #cork #killarney


Blarney Castle

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Blarney Castle


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After a fun day of exploring castles, we had dinner at a pub in the Cork city center before checking into our Signature King room at the Randles Hotel in Killarney. It was late and we were pretty beat. Cork should have been our first stop of the day, not Bunratty Castle, and then we would have had the afternoon to enjoy Killarney, which is a completely different vibe from Galway (lively and artsy with atmospheric pubs) and Cork (busy city). Killarney is charming, has a national park, hiking trails, waterfalls, and the town center has a lot going on. You'll find upscale hotels, shopping, and dining. I wish we had three nites here. My recommendations are the Killarney Plaza Hotel, The Ross, or Killarney Towers, which are closer to the center. The Randles Hotel is a beautiful, boutique 4 star hotel, but it isn't as close to the town center as I would have liked (14 minute walk). Also, at breakfast we realized there was a tour group in our hotel, which meant there were a lot of people in line for breakfast entry at the restaurant. They had their own dining room tho, so space wasn't an issue. When I made the reservation, I forgot to ask if tour groups stay here. If I knew, I would have chosen elsewhere. Lastly, although we had a very nice King room, our view faced a gas station on the main road, which wasn't aesthetically appealing. Randles does offer a wonderful fireplace in their front sitting room and bar...very cozy. And in season, they have an outdoor patio sitting area with a fireplace. Personally, when looking for hotels, I would recommend a closer location to the town center. www.killarneyplaza.com


Day 4: Killarney

Today was our drive through the Dingle Peninsula. We looked at both Ring of Kerry and Dingle options, and the group voted on Dingle, which is significantly shorter - but still a full day of stops and sightseeing. We had a good map to follow in Dingle - pictured here. You want to follow the direction of the map, Starting with Inch Beach, which is safer on those zig zaggy roads and sharp curves in the roadway. You'll be on the inside lane along narrow cliffside roads, and you'll avoid being behind tour buses. DRIVE WITH CAUTION.


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Our small group of four loved Dingle; this was a definite highlight. There is beauty, culture, and history here. The Slea Head Drive is one of the most popular scenic drives in Ireland, and it covers the main attractions. #minardcastle #sleaheaddrive #dunchaoinpier #beehivehuts #conorpass


Minard Castle

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Dun Chaoin Pier

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Strong Winds on our Walk to the Pier...Lorna Doesn't Mind!

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Gallarus Oratory a Preserved Early Christian Church is Estimated to be Over 1000 Years Old

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Ancient Beehive Huts Dating Back Over 1000 Years

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Cross at Slea Head

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Dingle Center, aka, Pub Central

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After our drive through the Dingle Peninsula and lunch at a pub across from the harbor, we made our way back to Killarney for down time before ending our nite and stay at a pub for dinner. #dinglepeninsula



November 5: Dublin

Before our drive to Dublin, we made sure to explore Muckross House and the grounds. This 19th century Victorian mansion, with over 60 immaculately preserved rooms, is in the heart of Killarney National Park, Ireland's largest park at 24,000 acres. It offers gardens, beautiful landscapes, and stunning views of Lake Muckross and Lough Leane, the largest of three lakes in Killarney. When Queen Victoria visited Muckross House in 1861, this became one of the most famous houses in the world. #killarneynationalpark #muckrosshouse #rosscastle #torcwaterfall


Muckross House

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Also, within Killarney National Park, our next quick stops were at Ross Castle, built in the 15th century, this historic fortress sits in an inlet on Lough Leane. Then to Torc Waterfall. This is an easy stop with convenient parking.


Ross Castle

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Torc Waterfall

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Lots of Sheep Sightings Throughout our Drive - Painted for Identification Purposes

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The Morgan Hotel in Dublin is in the heart of Temple Bar. If you want to be in a fun, pub filled area walkable to almost all attractions, this is a solid pick. We were in a Signature Queen, and the room was clean, bedding comfortable, and it was noise free. The room was a little tight, but you can expect that with European hotels. For a little extra space and $$, you can reserve a Superior King. The Morgan has a modern vibe and beautifully decorated dining room. A continental and full English/Irish breakfast is offered along with vegan and gluten free options. After checking in and exploring the Temple Bar area, we walked over to Grafton Street for some retail therapy. This street is one of the two main shopping streets in Dublin (the other being Henry Street) and is known for its shops, bars, and restaurants. www.themorgan.com


Morgan Hotel - Signature Queen Room


Grafton Street

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Temple Bar, Dublin



November 6: Dublin

Our morning started with a guided tour of the Kilmainham Gaol, which opened in 1796 and closed in 1852. We had an amazing tour guide who gave us a detailed history of life in the Dublin Jail, which included famous political figures detained because they rebelled against British rule. The jail played a significant role in the country's independence. During the Great Famine (1845-1852), the jail became overcrowded due to people intentionally getting arrested to hopefully be fed while in jail. Life in prison resulted in prisoners having poor health, bad hygiene and disease. Prisoners were fed once a day, at the least, while many peasants were left to starve. Imprisoned women and children were jailed here for begging or stealing food. There were no separation of adults and children or male and female convicts. Children as young as seven years old were incarcerated for stealing bread. This is a popular tour that must be booked in advance as it sells out. #kilmainhamgaol


Kilmainham Gaol

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Early afternoon the guys had a tour at the Jameson Distillery, www.jamesonwhiskey.com, Founded in 1780, Jameson has become a symbol and leading brand in Irish Whiskey. Lorna and I opted, instead, to visit both St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christ Church. #jamesonwhiskey #stpatricksdublin #christchurchdublin


Jameson's Distillery - Bow Street, Dublin


St. Patrick's Cathedral was established in 1191, and the current structure was built between 1220 -1259.The church is an iconic landmark rich in history and architecture. (Entry fee).

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Christ Church, established in 1030 by the Norse King of Dublin Sitric Silkenbeard is one of Dublin's oldest and most important landmarks. (Entry fee)


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Christ Church

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The 'Homeless Jesus' sculpture was created by artist Tim Schmalz in 2013 and later dedicated to Christ Church in 2015. It measures 7 ft wide and depicts a cloaked homeless figure. It has been blessed by the Pope, and it reflects the church's commitment to the under privileged. #homelessjesus


In the early afternoon, our group had a fabulous tour at Guinness, another Must See tour (Reservations needed). With seven levels, the tour is an immersive experience of sights, sensations, and sounds that gives you the history of Ireland's most famous beer over the past 250 years. The storehouse is in its original location and was established in 1876.There are three restaurants, Gravity Bar (with panoramic views of Dublin), and an expansive gift shop. Even if you are not a beer fan, this is one of Dublin's most popular tourist attractions, and I highly recommend it, (and I am not a beer drinker!) Guinness Storehouse: Visit The Home of Guinness | Guinness® US




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This day isn't over yet! I made the last reservations of the day at Trinity College's Book of Kells for viewing of the oldest gospel manuscript of all time and of one of the greatest masterpieces of medieval art. The 1200-year-old manuscript is believed to have been created around 800 AD by Monks of the Columban Order in Iona, Scotland before being moved to Kells, Ireland for safekeeping. It contains the four gospels of the New Testament and significant works of extraordinary artistry. Book of Kells Experience | Trinity College Dublin | Official Site


Illustrated Medieval Art in Book of Kells


Trinity College

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Trinity College Library and Grounds


End of nite - Merchant's Arch Pub - Decorated for Christmas!


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November 7: Edinburgh

Wakey, wakey and then we set off on a short flight to Edinburgh. I was very excited for our three nites in Edinburgh. There was so much I wanted to see, and I was also looking forward to our stay at the Caledonian Edinburgh Hotel. Built in 1903 and formerly a Waldorf Astoria, this hotel has beautiful dining areas and a noted Michelin Guide restaurant, 1925 at Pompadour. The Caledonian has castle views, a spa, designer toiletries, and is in a prime location, Princes Street, which is one of the main shopping streets. Edinburgh Castle and Victoria Street/Old Town are within a 20-minute walk. We had a Deluxe King room (standard size), and I would recommend an upgrade to a bigger room if possible. Breakfast here was the best of all our hotels. www.hilton.com/en/hotels/ednchqq-the-caledonian-edinburgh/


The Caledonian Hotel

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Deluxe King Room

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After we checked in, we walked around the area taking in the sights and met up with friends who were also in town for the Scotland vs New Zealand Rugby match the following day.


Clockwise: The Scott Monument, Guildford Arms Pub, St. Giles Cathedral, Street Performer


Guilford Arms and Deacon Brodies Tavern


Nov 8: Edinburgh

Dave and Mike had their rugby game today, while Lorna and I booked a highlands tour. In hindsight, I would have booked a private driver and would have asked to stop at only the highlights. The highlands tours range from 10 to 12 hours, and for me, it was too long a day on a bus. Tip ** Check beforehand if castles are open off season


Scotland vs New Zealand at Murray Field

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The following are highlights from our Highlannds Tour:


Kelpies Steel Sculptures - This was a Highlight

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A Stop to See the Highland (Hairy) Cows

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Stirling Castle, Duone Caste, and Kilchurn Castle


Inveraray and the Picturesque Setting on the Shores of Loch Fyne (Rainbow!)


Charming Highland Village of Luss on Loch Lomond

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Driving through the Scotland Highlands

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After a very long day of sightseeing and rugby, we were all ready to call it a day and be well rested for our last day and tour of the Edinburgh Castle.


November 9: Edinburgh

We were lucky to have a great tour guide for our castle tour. We learned about the history of the castle, which dates back to the 12th century.


Edinburgh Castle is one of Europe’s oldest and most storied fortresses, perched dramatically atop the volcanic Castle Rock. Its origins stretch back into prehistory, when people built a hill fort on the site. Over the centuries, it has withstood royal births, countless sieges, deaths, and ceremonies. It has evolved into a royal residence, military stronghold, seat of government, armory, prison, and symbol of national pride. Edinburgh Castle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


Edinburgh Castle Perched High on the Hill

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Inside the Castle Grounds

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Edinburgh Castle at Nite

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We found a really cool and good restaurant close to the Castle called The Outsider, www.theoutsiderrestaurant.com. I would put this one on your list. The menu was extensive and food was outstanding. #theoutsiderrestaurant #outsiderrestaurantedinburgh #edinburghrestaurants

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Before and after our tour, we walked up and down the Royal Mile, which is one of the busiest streets in the Old Town and an UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Royal Mile is between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace and is just about one mile long. There are shops, restaurants, and visitor attractions. #royalmile


Stock Image of the Royal Mile

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We also walked down Victoria Street in the Old Town area and famous for providing inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books. There are even wizardly shops. With its colored shops, cobblestone lane, and remarkable architecture, Victoria Street exudes a timeless charm. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you will find an eclectic mix of shops, dining, and galleries. For this reason, this is a MUST-SEE destination. And you will also find the Islander flagship store here. They are known for their leather and vegan leather tartan bags and matching accessories (wool scarves and hats). www.islanderuk.com #islanderedinburgh #victoriastreetedinburgh


Victoria Street

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Islander on Victoria Street

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Our last day ended on a high note. The Castle, The Royal Mile, and Old Town were really something special. The architecture, pretty streets, and neoclassic buildings make this such a photogenic city. Edinburgh is unique because you are surrounded by history, culture, and beauty all in one city. The people we talked to were warm, friendly and looked forward to sharing personal stories and their history with us. There is so much to love about Edinburgh, and I wish I had just one more day there.


November 10: Homebound

We said goodbye to the UK today, and I will always have fond memories of the places we visited, the kind people we encountered, the sound of bagpipes in the air, and the beauty and charm of each city. Our trip to Ireland and Scotland was extraordinary. Our friends, Mike and Lorna, were amazing travel companions, and it was really one incredible, adventurous week filled with laughs and remarkable sightseeing. A self-drive trip worked for us because Dave was comfortable with all the roundabouts and driving on the opposite side of the road. I recommend a self-drive thru Ireland because this gives you the flexibility to explore and make stops at will. I don't think a car is necessary in Edinburgh. It's a walkable city, and you can make it your homebase and plan on day trips.


If driving thru Ireland isn't for you, there are guided tours available thru Go Collette Tours and Trafalgar Tours. You can contact me to help plan your next vacation at AAA Northeast Travel - thill2@aaanortheast.com


I hope you enjoyed reading my post on Ireland and Scotland. Slán go fóill

Best, Tina


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